Toko, Vida Hotel, Downtown Dubai


(MENAFN- Khaleej Times) On the third Monday of every July Japan celebrates its Marine Day - a national holiday celebrating the ocean and its bounty - a particularly important aspect to island life. Dubai's newest Japanese eatery Toko wished to get in on the act, so every day until the end of September you can enjoy its dedicated 'Um No Hi' seafood set menu between 7.30pm and 11.30pm for Dhs395.

For those unaware of the relatively new establishment, Toko at the Vida Hotel in Downtown Dubai aims to penetrate the upmarket sushi joint market epitomised in the city by restaurants such as Zuma in DIFC and the brilliant Okku in the H Hotel. While perhaps not as plush as its contemporaries, the cosy dining room was packed on a Tuesday night - a regular occurrence said the staff. Each table appeared to be enjoying its orders, most groups sharing dishes either from the Marine Day menu or the well put together a la carte.

The dining room is simply appointed although comfortable with a splash of Japanese design and soft lighting turned down to relax even the most frenetic eater. The open kitchen is a nice touch, bringing diners closer to the action.

The 'Um No Hi' menu we were served consisted of five courses; plenty to fill two hungry patrons who hadn't eaten a thing since around 12pm. First out came some excellent Edamame soybeans, wonderfully straightforward and covered in sea salt. Accompanying the beans on the platter was a light Japanese asparagus and avocado salad, a salmon tartare and a tuna canapé doused in truffle oil. Each of these concoctions was enjoyable with the canapé's mushroom flavour winning.

Next up came various sashimi and sushi rolls. Not being the biggest fan of completely raw fish, the way the sashimi was cut (relatively thin compared to other outlets) rendered it pleasant. The tuna was especially rich. The maki rolls were as you'd expect - well constructed and a number of them containing a welcome touch of spice.

Moving forward the next courses comprised rock shrimp tempura with spicy mayonnaise; pan-fried scallops, sweet pickled apple, jalapeno garlic and smoked miso salmon. The deep fried rock shrimp unfortunately failed to hit the mark in comparison to similar offerings around town, but the scallops were expertly cooked. The salmon was full bodied and worth a punt if you like your fish smoky.

Perhaps the best course of the night was dessert. A trio of puddings including an amazing chocolate fondant and sorbet, served in a bento box filled with dry ice rounded proceedings off nicely.

Call: 04 442 8383


Khaleej Times

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