Thursday, 14 December 2017 12:20 GMT
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Hermes designer Nichanian: A woman in a man’s world

(MENAFN -Arab News) FRENCHWOMAN Veronique Nichanian, the artistic director for Hermes, stands out in the fashion world as one of the only women to create men’s styles


That she has been doing it for 26 years is another rarity


“I always feel the same anxiety,” she admitted ahead of her catwalk show Saturday in Paris. “But the enthusiasm is always solid,” she told AFP with a smile


She says Hermes’s then boss Jean-Louis Dumas told her when he tapped her in 1988: “Manage this like your little enterprise. You have carte blanche.&rdquo


Nichanian was previously with Nino Cerruti, who had hired her straight out of design school


The diminutive designer says she had to “work harder” and “be determined” as a woman in a man’s world and was “pretty proud” of her longevity


“It was a pretty macho milieu and the men didn’t expect a woman to tell them what to do,” she recalls


Nichanian came into the work “by chance, at first. Then I discovered a rigour in men’s fashion, as a person who is not a fan of unnecessary details.&rdquo


The 50-something designer said she had wanted to work in fashion since she was an adolescent, noting that while her parents were not in the business they were “very elegant people.&rdquo


She described the “discreet chic” of her father of Armenian origin, and how her mother and grandmother had Hermes handbags and scarves


The elegant brunette with sparkling eyes said she draws inspiration from myriad sources — “in the street... in what I read... at shows.&rdquo


But with Hermes, whose sales of men’s ready-to-wear enjoyed double-digit growth last year, “it’s a continuing story.&rdquo


While there are not radical changes from one show to the next, “the wardrobe gets richer from collection to collection,” she says


“Some cuts don’t change at all, or only by millimeters.&rdquo


And since Hermes clothes tend to be pricy, men will not stop wearing them after the season is up, she said


“I’ve looked at collections from 20 years ago and a.m. ashamed of none of them... You could still wear them (today).&rdquo


When Nichanian, who rose to artistic director for all of Hermes’s menswear in 2008, starts work on a new collection, she first considers the colors and the fabrics


Because Hermes is a luxury house, “we can afford the most beautiful materials” whether from France, Italy or Japan, she said, describing her style as a blend of fabrics with attention to detail, as well as the line.


Hermes designer Nichanian: A woman in a man’s world

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